We arrived at Antonio’s house in Canicatti a little before sunset. Strangely, we arrived just as my grandsons Anthony and Aaron drove up. They had driven directly from the airport in Catania. We all parked, unloaded our luggage, greeted Antonio, and settled into the various bedrooms. Antonio informed us that he would be giving a Sicilian cooking lesson before dinner. A man and a woman arrived for the lesson. We watched and participated in the lesson, especially Aaron, who is a chef himself. I don’t recall the exact dish they were preparing, but I believe it was some type of Sicilian pasta dish.
After the lesson, we all, to varying degrees (I was among the less enthusiastic), helped prepare dinner and indulged in local wines (the woman student and I were among the more enthusiastic drinkers). The dinner was marvelous and lively. At one point, while enjoying dessert, the tipsy woman student accused me of insulting her. I couldn’t remember doing so, but I acknowledged that it was a possibility. To avoid any unpleasantness, I excused myself and went to bed. The festivities continued for a couple of hours more.
The next morning, people gradually woke up and made their way down for breakfast, which took several hours due to the late risers stumbling to the table. Just as the last of us were finishing breakfast, my cousin Teresa and her family arrived to exchange hellos, buongiornos, cheek kisses, hugs, and gifts. We caught up on family updates, said our goodbyes, and watched as the relatives drove off. Afterward, we spent some time exploring Antonio’s gardens before getting into our cars and heading to Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples.
The Valley of the Temples (Valle dei Templi) in Agrigento is an outstanding example of ancient Greek art and architecture and is one of Sicily’s main attractions. Although it is called a “valley,” the site is actually located on a ridge outside the modern town of Agrigento. The Valley has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It contains the remains of seven temples, all built in the Doric style. However, the names of the temples, except for the Temple of Concordia, are based on a tradition established during the Renaissance and may not be accurate.
The Temple of Concordia, named after a Latin inscription found nearby, was constructed in the 5th century BC. It was later converted into a church in the 6th century AD and is now one of the best-preserved temples in the Valley. The Temple of Juno, also built in the 5th century BC, was destroyed by fire in 406 BC during the Carthaginian invasion. The Temple of Heracles, dedicated to one of the most revered deities in ancient Akragas, is the oldest temple in the Valley. It was destroyed by an earthquake and today only consists of eight columns.
The Temple of Olympian Zeus, built in 480 BC to celebrate the city-state’s victory over Carthage, features impressive atlases on a large scale. The Temple of Castor and Pollux, despite having only four remaining columns, has become the symbol of modern Agrigento. The Temple of Hephaestus (Vulcan), also from the 5th century BC, was once considered a grand construction in the valley but has suffered significant erosion over time. The Temple of Asclepius, located outside the ancient town walls, was a destination for pilgrims seeking healing from illness.
The Valley also houses the Tomb of Theron, a large pyramidal tuff monument. Scholars believe it was built to honor the Romans who died in the Second Punic War.
In addition to the temples within the Archaeological Park, there are Greek and Roman necropolises, residential areas, and an ancient olive grove. The olive grove includes a recreation area dating back to the 5th century BC, where city residents would relax and enjoy themselves along the river that runs alongside the site.
I have visited this place numerous times and make sure to visit every time I travel to Sicily. Similar to Pompeii, the Valley of the Temples experiences an unusual temperature anomaly. It always feels much hotter here than in nearby places. Like Pompeii, the heat quickly drains one’s energy and makes one feel exhausted. That was the case during my visit.
We started by navigating through the tourist souvenir shops, which offered a vast collection of ricordi, also known as chincaglieria or gottsadella, as my mother used to say (Knick-knacks or Tchotchke in English). After passing through the ticket booth, we climbed the path to begin our journey along the extensive ruins. Initially, everyone was excited, laughing, and exploring the various remnants. I would provide my customary explanations of what we were seeing—the walls, Pirandello’s villa in the distance, and the location of the Greek and Roman city, among other things. However, as time passed, we became more fatigued due to the heat, and our breaks became longer and longer. Naida’s shoulder pain worsened. When we finally reached the end of the temple ruins and the edge of the olive grove, we gave up and rested in the shade until we felt refreshed enough to decide it was time to return. However, no one felt up to walking all the way back. So, we walked a short distance to the tram stop, provided for tired tourists like us, and rode it back to the parking lot before driving back to Antonio’s house.
On the drive back, Aaron and Anthony decided that we should visit Naro, a village situated on a mountaintop known for being a fief of the Chiaramonte family. The Chiaramonte family rose to become the most powerful and wealthy family in Sicily. In the 13th century, the marriage of Manfredi Chiaramonte to Isabella Mosca united the two Sicilian counties of Modica and Ragusa. The family’s influence in Sicily persisted until 1392 when Andrea Chiaramonte, the 8th Count of Modica and the last defender of Palermo for King Frederick IV of Sicily against the illegitimate pretender Martin I of Aragon, was executed.
Naro, the imposing city, has an ancient history dating back to the Sicani, the island’s oldest inhabitants, and has been influenced by the Normans, Swabians, Spaniards, and Arabs. Traces of their presence can be found throughout the city, such as the ancient city gate, the only remaining gate from that era, and the beautiful mosque converted by Conte Ruggero into the old Chiesa Madre (Cathedral). Another testament to these historical influences is the ancient Jewish quarter, along with the Castello Medievale Chiaramonte, a medieval castle that overlooks the city and showcases an exhibition of magnificent nineteenth-century women’s dresses that belonged to the noblewomen of Naro.
During World War II, the city suffered heavy damage. Contrary to popular belief among friends and family, Naro did not have German soldiers stationed there. It was Canicatti that the Allies targeted for bombing because that was where the German troops were located. When the Allied airmen asked how they could distinguish Canicatti from the other towns in the area, they were informed that it was the first town on a mountaintop as they approached the island from the sea. However, Noto, not Canicatti, was actually the first town. Additionally, Canicatti was one of the few Sicilian towns that were not built on a mountaintop.
Nevertheless, as we drove up the mountainside towards the city, we somehow got confused by the road and ended up circling the city without actually entering it. After some time, we gave up and headed back to Canicatti.
On the journey, I enjoyed the beautiful Sicilian countryside. We passed a small mountaintop called “Piezzu gu medru” by my family. Some of the stories of the medieval paladins of Charlemagne in the Sicilian puppet shows and Ariosto’s “Orlando Furioso” were set in Sicily. According to my relatives, the mountain had been split apart by Orlando during his jealous rage at the loss of his love. They also mentioned that at the top of the mountain, there was Orlando’s chair or throne. When I lived in Sicily, which was fifty years ago, I walked to the mountain, climbed it, and sat in Orlando’s throne. It was an enormous chair, and I felt like a small child in my parents’ chair.
Eventually, we safely returned to Antonio’s place, enjoyed another marvelous dinner prepared by him, and had a restful night’s sleep.
Papa Joe's Tales, Fables and Parables 